At Revival Vintage, we aim to recreate not only the silhouettes and details of original 1940s and 1950s garments, but also their distinctive look, movement and feel. Choosing the right fabric is an essential part of achieving that authenticity.

Wherever possible, we select fabrics that closely resemble those used for the original garments that inspire our designs. This means they may occasionally require a little more attention than modern polyester or acrylic clothing that can simply be thrown in a washing machine. However, we are sure you will agree that the beautifully authentic appearance—and the pleasure of wearing something that feels true to its era—makes that extra care worthwhile.

Natural and naturally derived fibres feature prominently throughout our collections, including cotton, linen, wool, rayon and viscose. Each has its own qualities and care requirements. Understanding how to wash, dry and store them correctly will help your Revival garments retain their colour, shape and character for many years to come.

This guide focuses on the key fabrics used in our Revival & Socialite men and womenswear.  However fibre content alone does not determine how something should be cleaned - the garment’s construction matters too e.g. a wool suit should be approached very differently to a wool cardigan.

Cotton

Usually durable and straightforward to care for, but strong colours can fade and cotton may shrink at high temperatures. Wash at a cool or moderate temperature, ideally inside out, and air-dry away from strong sunlight. Reshape while damp and iron according to the care label.

Linen

Linen naturally develops creases—part of its relaxed charm rather than a fault. Wash gently at a low temperature, avoid overloading the machine and reshape after washing. Air-drying is preferable. Iron while slightly damp for a crisp finish, or allow the natural texture to remain for a softer look.  Over time linen tends to become softer through washing and wear.

Rayon and viscose

Rayon is a broad family of regenerated cellulose fabrics; viscose is its most familiar form. Although plant-derived, both can be considerably weaker when wet and should be handled gently.

Use cool water and a delicate cycle only where the label permits. Avoid twisting, wringing or leaving garments soaking. Reshape carefully and dry flat or on a supportive hanger, depending on the garment. Steam or iron on a low setting from the reverse. Even though it is often manufactured to look like a natural fabric it cannot be treated just like cotton.

Pure wool

Wash knitwear sparingly, preferably by hand in tepid water with specialist wool wash; avoid rubbing, wringing and temperature changes; roll in a towel; reshape and dry flat away from direct heat. Gentle removal of early pilling with a sweater comb is normal maintenance.  See our full pure wool care blog for more detail (add link)

Caring for Men’s Tailoring

A pure wool sweater may be carefully hand-washed, but the same should never be attempted with a structured suit jacket, waistcoat or tailored trousers. These garments contain several internal layers—including linings, interfacings, padding and shaping materials—which may shrink, distort or separate when immersed in water. Washing can permanently alter the fit, structure and smooth appearance of these garments.

Always follow the individual care label and have structured tailoring professionally dry-cleaned when necessary. Dry-cleaning should not be required after every wear: allowing a suit or waistcoat to air naturally, brushing it gently with a clothes brush and treating minor marks promptly can help keep it fresh between cleans.

Hang jackets and coats on broad, supportive hangers to preserve the shape of the shoulders. Trousers should be hung neatly by the waistband or folded along their existing crease. Allow garments to air before returning them to a crowded wardrobe, and avoid prolonged exposure to direct sunlight, which may fade the fabric.

Waistcoats should be treated with the same care as suit jackets, even if they appear less structured. Never place one in a washing machine unless its care label specifically states that it is washable.

Ties and cravats also require careful treatment. Spot-cleaning on robust fabrics may work but it can leave watermark rings so a feathering action should be used to ‘fade out’ the damp area.   With delicate fabrics such as silk with spot cleaning the fabric’s integrity can be altered, while washing may damage their internal structure. For significant marks, seek advice from a professional cleaner experienced in delicate accessories.

Revival offers a range of collarless vintage style shirts with button on collars.  Detachable collars can also be purchased separately, a particularly practical feature, as the collar is often the first area of a man's formal shirt to show wear. Link to formal shirts

To give your spearpoint collar shirts that freshly pressed finish consider a light laundry sizing spray, often gentler and gives a softer appearance.  Traditional starch is better when you want that particularly crisp, formal 1940s look.

Pure vintage garments

Revival vintage continues to sell a range of true vintage garments from their Yorkshire showroom.  Predominantly 1940s & 50s dresses.   

Original vintage garments require a little more detective work. Garment care labels did not come into mainstream use until the 1960s so we often don’t have those to guide us.  They may be too faded to read even if they are present.  

Even when you can identify the main fabric, the dyes, threads, linings, trims and internal construction may react very differently to water or cleaning products. Never assume that a vintage garment is washable simply because the fabric appears to be cotton, linen or wool.

If you are confident that the garment is suitable for wet cleaning, it makes sense to test a small, hidden area first for colour bleeding or other changes. If there is any doubt particularly with rayon, mixed fabrics, elaborate trims or a valuable garment leave well alone and seek specialist advice.

1. Mid-Century Fabric Profiles & Risk Factors

The 1940s and 50s combined traditional natural fibres with a massive boom in early, unstable synthetic innovations. We need to know how to recognise and treat them.

• CC41 & Utility Cottons (1940s) garments with the British CC41 label or American wartime utility marks used tightly budgeted fabrics. They are often resilient but have minimal seam allowances that can fray easily during washing.

• Cold Rayon & Crepes (1940s) rayon crepes from this era are notoriously unstable. When wet, the fibres swell and shrink drastically, turning a flowing dress into a stiff, shrunken rag. Our advice would be to dry clean or spot-clean only.

• Early Synthetics (1950s) this era saw the rise of Nylon, Orlon (acrylic), and Dacron (polyester). While tough, early 1950s nylon yellowed quickly when exposed to light, and early synthetics melt instantly under a modern hot iron. 

• Taffeta & Organdie (1950s) prom, party and vintage occasion dresses were often made of sizing acetate taffeta or stiffened cotton organdie. Sizing is a starch-like chemical finish that gives the dress its crisp rustle; washing it dissolves the sizing, leaving the dress permanently limp.

• Re-purposed Fabrics even more challenging - during the 40s 50s wartime rationing, post-war austerity, and make do and mend campaigns, meant home sewists and small-scale manufacturers repurposed numerous non-textile and household fabrics for clothing. Popular ‘make do’ materials included discarded household linens, feedsacks, furnishing materials, blankets and surplus military gear. Fabrics not necessarily designed to be washed.

2. Trims, Fasteners, and Structuring Disasters

Mid-century garments rely on internal structures and embellishments that react terribly to modern cleaning.

• Pot Metal & Steel Zippers unlike modern nylon zippers, 40s and 50s zippers are heavy metal. If left wet, they rust instantly, leaving permanent orange tracks on the fabric.

• Casein & Celluloid Buttons early plastic buttons can warp, lose their shine, or completely dissolve if exposed to dry cleaning solvents or hot water. They should be snipped off or covered in tin foil before cleaning.

• Flock Printing & Glitter Glue many 1950s novelty circle skirts feature velvet-like flocked patterns or glued-on glitter. Standard dry cleaning solvents dissolve the glue, causing the pattern to slide right off the fabric.

• Internal Shoulder Pads 1940s garments feature heavy, structured shoulder pads. These are often filled with raw cotton batting or shredded scrap fabric that will bunch, lump, and bleed dye through to the outer garment if submerged in water. 

• Fabric covered elements like buttons, belts and rouleau loops can shrink back and fray rendering them shabby and unsightly. 

3.  Mid-century Stain & Odour Issues

Garments from this era have been sitting in attics or wardrobes for 70 to 80 years, presenting distinct aging issues.

• Cigarette & Cigar Smoke mid-century clothing was heavily exposed to tobacco smoke. A deep soak in oxygen-based powder like sodium percarbonate is safe for 50s cottons, but for unwashable rayons, a fine mist of cheap vodka or an enclosed box with activated charcoal or baking soda is required.

• Oxidised Grease food stains from 1950s cocktail parties have had decades to oxidize into dark brown spots. These require targeted enzyme treatments or professional petroleum-based spot cleaners rather than modern supermarket stain sprays.

• Mothball Odour (Naphthalene) this deep, chemical smell cannot be washed out easily. The only cure is time and high air volume. Hang the item outdoors in a shaded, breezy spot for several days.

•  Foxing & Yellowing brown age spots, yellowing underarms, and old perspiration marks require oxygen-based soaking agents rather than harsh chlorine bleach.

• Fusty or Musty Smells begin with the gentlest method 1st.  Air the garment somewhere dry and well ventilated, out of direct sunlight. Don’t disguise the smell with perfume or saturate it in fabric spray. If the odour remains or mould is visible you may need to consult a specialist cleaning company. Keep it separate from other clothing until you know the cause.

4. True Vintage Cleaning Kit

Want to build a specific True Vintage cleaning kit? These our Revival’s recommendations:

• Scent-Free Oxygen Stain Remover or standard sodium bicarbonate powder to lift decades of yellowing from 1950s white crinolines and cotton sundresses.

• No-Rinse Delicate Wash hand-washing 1950s wool cardigans or cashmere sweaters requires a no-rinse formula to minimise fabric handling and friction.

• Garment Steamer direct ironing risks scorching mid-century acetate and nylon. A high-quality steamer is the safest way to remove creases from voluminous 1950s skirts.  A steam iron held to hover above the garment is the next best suggestion.

• Muslin Garment Bags swapping plastic or vinyl bags for breathable cotton or muslin garment bags to prevent  moisture traps and fibre rot.

Accessories

Caring for Leather Accessories

Real leather is a natural material that develops character with age, but it should be protected from excessive moisture, heat and prolonged exposure to strong sunlight.

Wipe away light surface dirt using a soft, dry cloth. For more thorough cleaning, use a specialist product formulated for the particular type of leather, testing it first on a small, inconspicuous area. Never place leather accessories in a washing machine or submerge them in water.

If a leather bag or pair of gloves becomes wet, gently blot away the moisture and allow the item to dry naturally at room temperature. Keep it away from radiators, hairdryers and other direct heat sources, which can cause leather to harden, crack or lose its shape.

Store handbags upright where possible, lightly filled with acid-free tissue paper to help them retain their shape. Avoid overfilling bags during use, and do not store leather in sealed plastic. A breathable cotton dust bag provides better protection while still allowing air to circulate.

Metal clasps and fittings can be lightly polished with a soft cloth, taking care not to transfer cleaning products onto the surrounding leather.

Caring for True Vintage Hats and Handbags

Original vintage hats and handbags may contain several different materials, including fabric, leather, straw, vinyl, felt, card, glue, metal, feathers and delicate trims. These components can react very differently to water and cleaning products, so it is rarely safe to wash or soak a vintage accessory at home.

Begin by gently removing loose surface dust with a soft, clean brush, working slowly around trims, stitching and embellishments. Avoid vigorous rubbing and do not apply household stain removers, perfume or fabric sprays directly to the item.

Store vintage hats in a suitable hatbox, supported with acid-free tissue paper to help preserve their shape. Vintage handbags should be stored upright where possible and lightly filled with tissue, without placing strain on handles, clasps or frames. Keep both away from damp, direct sunlight and extremes of temperature.

If an accessory has a persistent musty smell, visible mould, foxing, loose trims or signs of structural damage, isolate it from the rest of your collection and seek advice from a specialist vintage textile cleaner or conservator. With older pieces, an imperfect mark is often preferable to permanent damage caused by an unsuitable cleaning treatment.  With true vintage sometimes its small signs of age are simply part of the piece’s history and unique appearance.

Storage of vintage and high quality reproduction clothing

• Clean garments before storing them for a long period.

• Never store clothing while damp.

• Fold knitwear rather than hanging it.

• Use broad, supportive hangers for tailored garments and dresses.

• Keep clothing away from direct sunlight.

• Store belts separately or loosen them to prevent strain.

• Use breathable garment bags rather than sealed plastic.

• Protect wool from moths and check stored garments periodically.

Caring for vintage and vintage-inspired clothing need not be complicated. In most cases, it simply means taking a little time to understand the fabric, following  garment care labels if available and choosing the gentlest suitable treatment.

Above all, these clothes are made to be worn and enjoyed. Treat them with care, and they can remain a treasured part of your wardrobe—and perhaps even someone else’s—for many years to come.

Let’s use some old laundry images to save time.  Have put some in a folder in the blogs folder.  Can mix in with model images wearing knitwear, suits, linen etc.  Links to regular categories as well as cleaning specialists? HF