Holding It Together - Cufflinks Through The Midcentury

To celebrate the arrival of our new range of deadstock true vintage cufflinks from the 1930s through 70s, I would like to share with you a historical journey of this sleeve cuff adornment that may be small but packs a punch.

It is believed cufflinks first appeared in the late 17th century, prior to that shirt cuffs were held together with ribbons, ties and strings. In fact up until the Middle Ages shirts were seen as underwear and it was considered embarrassing to show your cuffs as opposed to drawing attention to them.

Early examples were pairs of ornamental buttons attached by a short chain.  Named by French tailors as boutons de manchettes, or 'sleeve buttons', they became popular with the upper classes. Jewellers began to create these sleeve buttons in silver and gold, adding semi-precious gemstones or stamped designs and thus the cufflink was born. 

Just like today they were often presented as a gift to mark a special anniversary or achievement. Other designs included painted family portraits like the example here. By the end of the 20th century, men’s shirt makers started to mass-produce shirts with buttons already attached to the cuff, consequently, the use of cufflinks decreased. As fashions changed the French in particular influenced our styles. Their double cuff (French cuff) found its way to England and sparked a resurgence in cufflinks. 

In 1924 the Boyer toggle fastener was invented, the fixed metal shank with swivel closure made it far easier to use and remains one of the most popular methods of fastening cufflinks today. The shape of a toggle can help enthusiasts date the links.

1930s Cufflinks

The thirties were a vibrant time for men's fashion, and cufflinks became a key accessory that reflected the era's bold styles and design trends

Cufflinks grew increasingly streamlined and geometric through the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s. Cufflinks from the 1930s epitomise luxury, showcasing a stunning array of materials that reflect the opulence of the era. Real gold and silver bases were set with striking gemstones like diamonds and sapphires or had intricate enamel geometric patterns.

The fixed dumbbell, chain with bean back and snap styles remained popular closure types. One of the most collectable had the fun name of Kum-a-part, I have included this royal blue pair as an example. They work in the same way a giant press stud would. Some of the chain ones were even retractable to get a snug fit.

1940s Cufflinks

Men’s jewellery almost disappeared during the war years, although the military had a strong influence on designs post-war. Cufflinks were still predominantly worn with dress shirts, especially for work or formal events. They were usually round gold-toned metal inset with coloured glass or resin. Geometric Art Deco designs were a trend during the decade, as were monogrammed initials. Other cufflinks had themes like lucky horseshoes, planes, palm trees or pin up girls. Since they were worn so often, men collected many different pairs.

By the end of the 40s clothes were growing wider, and so did cufflinks to match. Up to 1/2-inch wide gems set in a thick gold case were not uncommon.

1950s Cufflinks

The blending of dress and casual became more and more blurred. Now men spent just as much time, if not more, in casual clothes after work and on the weekends than they did at the office. Workers changed into leisurewear at the end of the work day, making workwear disappear from public street view.

Pictured here are one of our true vintage unworn 1950s god plated cufflinks with sky blue glass cabochon detail in a four claw oval setting.

1960s Cufflinks

Influenced by space travel and the advent of tropical holiday travel, my favourite cufflink style happens to be from the 1950s and 1960s. They are atomical shaped mother of pearl designs. Here are a couple of examples.  

By the 50s and 60s, most cufflinks had adopted the Boyer closure.

1970s Cufflinks

Wouldn't you know it, cufflinks in the seventies were bulky and brash just like the rest of the decades clothing and accessories. A looped wrap around mesh style was one of the styles favoured during the decade as were gold metal over sized gold cut pairs in sunburst designs. Novelty pairs depicted vintage vehicles and other such dandy designs. Tigers eye and onyx were popular polished semi precious stones.

Today, cufflinks can be found in almost every culture in the world. Social status is no longer a deciding factor with pairs available for all budgets. As leisurewear dominates today, we often associate them with weddings and similar occasions.  Who doesn't love a pair engraved with 'groom' or 'dad'!

Why are midcentury cufflinks still popular today?

Today, midcentury cufflinks continue to be a sought-after accessory for those who appreciate vintage style. The unusual designs and the quality craftsmanship are second to none. Whether you're a fan of retro fashion or simply appreciate the elegance of the past, vintage cufflinks are sure to make a statement. Similar to a necktie in so much as they are a way of expressing your personality when wearing a formal shirt and or suit.

In addition to their role as a fashion statement, cufflinks also convey a sense of tradition and respect for the formalities of dress. They indicate attention to detail and a commitment to classic style, which people appreciate in many social and professional settings.